We were all a little taken aback when my Mom mentioned, kind of casually, she wanted to go back to Santa Domingo, where she’d lived as a new bride and mother. I knew, at one point, she’d wanted to go to the Galapagos but when I asked her recently about that trip, it was no longer on her bucket list.
My Dad was a pilot for Dominicana Airlines in Santa Domingo in 1959, the year I was born. My Mom’s doctor thought I was due in October, so my Dad quit his job and came back to Miami to await my birth. According to my Mom, my Dad would stare at her all day, waiting for something to happen. Always a late bloomer, I didn’t arrive until the end of November! At that time, my Dad asked if he could get his old job back at Dominicana. They said yes, so he went back to Santa Domingo and my Mom stayed behind until I was six weeks old and had my shots. Then, off we went.
My parents had an apartment and a motorcycle to get around (no car!) and a woman that helped with me and the house. My mother remembered that Trujillo’s (the dictator of Santa Domingo) daughter, Flora de Oro, lived in the same apartment building as my parents. I feel it was very brave to take a newborn baby to a third world country, where nothing was familiar, they didn’t speak the language and knew no one. I also feel I’m kind of lucky I survived that adventure.
My Mom remembered certain details about the apartment where they lived- that it wasn’t too far from the water, was up a hill, near a market and by a closed embassy. Unfortunately, she didn’t remember the address, the street name or the neighborhood, so we were facing an uphill battle of trying to find her old digs. But we did try. Especially Kelley, who was like a bloodhound on the trail. She Googled info, read a thesis paper and created a virtual walking map in an attempt to locate the elusive apartment.
Coincidentally, when I became a flight attendant for Air Florida, my route for the first year was to Port-Au-Prince and Santa Domingo. Because I was “French-qualified” I got assigned this route because of Port-Au-Prince, where they spoke Creole. We stayed at the Sheraton in Santa Domingo, which was not hard to find as it was right down the street from our hotel- The Riazon.
Our breakfast was complimentary, so we started each day at the restaurant next to the hotel, the Manola. We got coffee, a choice of juices (passionfruit was the best!), eggs or pancakes and sides of ham, sausage, fruit or mongo, which is mashed plantains. Jon, our waiter, was sweet and helpful. In general, we found the Dominican people (especially the men) very warm and welcoming.
The first day we Ubered to the Colonial Zone, where Columbus was buried at the Cathedral (I’d heard this rumor when I was a flight attendant) and to the Cathedral Museum. We then attempted to go to the Cathedral, but got screamed at by a woman working there, so gave up and went to lunch. We ate at Jalao, which was a Dominican restaurant with music videos playing in the background and a fun vibe. I got the recommended Goat Tacos, which were delicious. The coffees came with Jalao on the side, which is a chewy coconut confection. In general, it seems Dominicans enjoy their sweets.
After lunch we walked to the Ozama Fort, then to a Chocolate Factory and shop called Kah Kow (like Cacoa), where we sampled some delicious chocolate. Tired, we headed back home, showered, and changed into matching nightgowns I’d brought as a gift for everyone. We didn’t have the energy to travel anywhere for dinner, so went to the restaurant at the hotel and all got Chicken Soup. It was exactly what we needed to refuel for the next day.
Every day after that was a new adventure.
We traveled to Mirador park that was near a bunch of embassies, thinking it might have been near where my parents lived. Also my Mom remembered she lived near Trujillo’s compound, which Kelley theorized may have been turned into a park. This neighborhood rang no bells for my Mom, so we left to visit Los Tres Ojos- the Three Caves, which is a must-see in Santa Domingo. When we arrived, we were hot, sweaty and tired. A man selling coconuts outside the entrance saved the day and we all got a fresh coconut juice. So hydrating!
If there is one dish Santa Domingo is known for it is Monfongo and our Uber Driver from the airport (Erwin) told us his favorite spot to get it was D’Luis Parrillada, so we went there for a late lunch. One of my memories of Santa Domingo was landing at the airport and stopping at a shack right near there and getting an El Presidente beer. We had to drink it right then, on the way to the hotel, to be legal to fly the next morning. I remembered it was ice cold and delicious, even though I’m not much of a beer drinker. The El Presidente I drank at the bar a D’ Luis was served in a bamboo holder and was delicious. The monfongo- topped with garlic shrimp and studded with crispy chicharrons in creamy mashed plantains- was my favorite meal in Santa Domingo.
We all really enjoyed the Dominican coffee we were served for breakfast, so we walked to the supermarket to pick some up for gifts. As we walked, Kelley grilled my Mom on whether this neighborhood- right near our hotel- could possibly be her old neighborhood. She didn’t think so.
We had a tour of the Colonial Zone that morning. We asked our tour guide, an older gentleman, if he knew where Trujillo’s daughter lived, back in the day. He did not, but seemed pretty high on Trujillo. My parents left Santa Domingo in 1960 because the political climate turned unstable. Trujillo, a dictator, was assassinated in 1961 and his regime was overthrown.
We went to the Columbus Lighthouse where Columbus is buried, back to the Three Caves, to the Pantheon, the Cathedral and to some gift shops. A popular drink in Santa Domingo is Mamajuana, which is known for its aphrodisiac properties. We sampled it; it’s a liqueur made with rum, red wine, honey and various herbs and bark. It was… interesting.
Lunch was at La Marchanta, another restaurant in the Colonial section, off the plaza. I didn’t expect much, as it was in a touristy area, but ordered La Bandera, which translates to the flag and is the National Dish of the Dominican Republic. It has creamy red beans, white rice, some type of meat and a side salad. Mine came with stewed chicken. I’m not sure how this translates into red, white and blue of the Dominican flag (there was no blue), but it was delicious.
One day we went shopping at a fancy mall (The Blue Mall) and had a fancy lunch (tuna tacos) at Juliette, a restaurant my sister Elise had heard about. Everywhere we went, we asked questions and searched around neighborhoods, looking for something familiar. We went to the Museum of the Dominican Man and asked if they had any information on Trujillo. They did not. There was a neighborhood that day that we walked through that my Mom thought seemed was around where she used to live, but alas, we never did find her old apartment. Without an address, it was like trying to find a needle in a haystack.
The last day we did a wonderful Coffee and Chocolate Making Tour (Coprixa Travels) at a farm outside of the city, where me made coffee, chocolate and a pizza made from yuca. They served us a lovely lunch by the pool. Everyone opted for chicken but me (there were chickens running around the property); I got the Fried Fish. We had the choice to go swimming in a sink hole in a cave, or in the pool. Kelley chose the sink hole, Elise and I chose the pool. My Mom chose to stay dry.
We then battled traffic on the way home in rush hour. Thank God we had a driver from the tour to take us home! Kelley had thought originally we could rent a car and drive ourselves around Santa Domingo, but we quickly discovered that would have been a horrible idea. It was another thing I remembered from my time in Santa Domingo- that the traffic was bad and the driving very difficult. I would sit in the back of the van, facing backwards, so as to avoid watching the near-collisions.
That night, Kelley and I walked the short distance to the Sheraton where I used to stay and I finally got my Pina Colada.
“It might not be as good as you remember,” Elise had warned me.
Surely, the bartender had changed and I actually think the location of the bar had changed. But it was still really good! It may be my last Pina colada, as I never drink them and as we were finishing up, a flight crew checked into the hotel. Just like the old days! This whole trip was kind of an exercise in Time Travel. Mom, back to where she was when she was 23. Me, back to when I was at 20. For Kelley and Elise, a Girl’s Trip and a new adventure for us all.
When I flew into Santa Domingo, I never got the chance to sight-see because we had no time. I’d actually arranged a trip for my parents to go back and visit Santa Domingo when I was a flight attendant, but before they could go, my airline- Air Florida- went bankrupt. So, to be able to finally go back and visit, with my Mom and sisters, was really special.
I made a photo book of our trip for my Mom’s Birthday. She thanked me, said she had a great time and was already planning her next trip.
“Where to?” I asked. “Kenya,” she replied.
Must eats in Santa Domingo:
- Monfongo– a very popular dish of mashed plantains, chicharron, it can be topped with a variety of meat or seafood.
- Mangu– mashed plantains served at breakfast, often with fried salami, fried cheese and fried eggs.
- La Bandera Dominicana– the National dish of Santa Domingo- white rice, red beans, stewed meat and a side salad.
- Sancocha– a hearty stew made with several meats, root vegetables and corn.
- Goat– a very common protein, usually served stewed with rice.
- Coconut– in all varieties- coconut water, fish with coconut sauce and jalao- a sweet made of coconut and honey.
- Pescado Frito (Fried Fish)- surrounded by water, fresh fish and fried fish is popular.
- Tostones– ripe plantains that have been smashed, fried and refried. Served as a side.
- Empanadas– fried dough patties, filled with meat or cheese.
- Habichueles con Dulce– a dessert made with red beans, condensed and coconut milk.
- Mamajuana drink– aka the “baby maker”, a liqueur made with rum, red wine, honey and spices and herbs.
- El Presidente Beer– local beer, served ice cold in a green bottle.
- Fruit Juices– all kinds are served but the best known is passionfruit or chinola.
- Rum– Santa Domingo is known for it’s rum, especially Brugal, made in Santa Domingo
I brought some Brugal Rum home and am planning on a Dominican Dinner Party with fun rum drinks, fried tostones and Dominican foods. And some Mamajuana as an aperitif, for those who want to get spicy!
Up Next: Kenya?
