Quick Bites
Mais y Agave
This Mexican restaurant, which has been years in the making, finally opened on the former Randazzos restaurant site at the end of April. We went there for our daughter’s birthday and, luckily, got there a couple minutes early because they couldn’t find our reservation.
The hostess, dressed in a beautiful black Frieda Kahlo-like outfit, with perfect slicked back hair and red lipstick, gave us the impression we were out of luck, especially when we told her the reservation was for six, not two. Luckily, she was able to seat us. Unfortunately, encountering a snooty hostess was not a good first impression of the restaurant.
Mais y Agave, an imposing massive wood and glass structure with a riot of greenery, bougainvillea and neon at the entrance, has three floors. The first (El Patio) is casual dining, with a big glassed-in kitchen, where staff in hats prepare homemade tortillas and there is a huge open courtyard. The second floor is Los Balcones, which is fine dining and the third floor is the Bar and Rooftop (La Azotea).
Another hostess escorted us onto the elevator and the second floor, where we encountered a colorful, Mexican monkey sculpture. The kids likened it to being escorted by a bouncer into a disco and Mais y Agave does radiate that exclusive air. Other than the one hostess, the staff were friendly and helpful. There were plenty of open tables, by the way.
The cocktail list is Tequila and Mezcal heavy, with lots of Margaritas; the only wines they serve are Mexican. Who knew? They were, unfortunately, out of the Aguas Frescas mocktail for our pregnant Birthday girl. My Jalapeno Margarita ($17) was very good.
The emphasis at Mais y Agave is on the Oaxacan food and culture and every detail- from the artwork, uniforms, napkins, fresh flowers, glassware and silverware- are meticulously thought out and beautiful. The waiter made salsa tableside, carefully explaining every ingredient. The red salsa was served with homemade fried tortilla chips. The salsa was smooth, but could have used more heat (we asked for medium spicy) and the chips needed more salt.
We ordered two appetizers- Guacamole ($14) and Ceviche ($28) with passionfruit. The guacamole, served in a traditional molcajete, was a little smooth for my taste and lacked heat. The ceviche came out beautifully plated, with red serrano slices and a flower on top. It had a good flavor; the delicate sea bass was finely minced, not in chunks.
I ordered one of the recommended dishes- the octopus (Pulpo Larandeado $28). It arrived with two huge tentacles and was smoky and crispy on the outside and tender in the middle. The Mexican rice that came with it was unremarkable, with big potato chunks and the small side salad seemed an afterthought.
Two diners got the Short Rib with Black Mole ($40), which they enjoyed and two others got tacos- Lobster (de Langosta Al Pastor $28) and Steak (Beef Filet de res Prime $28). They came out on pretty ceramic dishes and were three to an order. Good, but not amazing.
There were also Insectos on the menu! Maguey worms and Grasshoppers were at Market Price, but none of us dared to try them. Market Price is always an iffy proposition, at any rate.
Too full for dessert, we retreated to the Rooftop to check it out. It was hopping! Almost sunset, with a beautiful view of downtown Coral Gables, it was the place to be (and be seen). The mariachis, who had been missing in action at Los Balcones, were up there finishing a set and accompanied us downstairs in the elevator.
Verdict: The bill was over $500 for six of us and while I was blown away by the building and the atmosphere, I wasn’t blown away by the food. It’s definitely worth seeing and I would return to try the first floor food and get a drink on the rooftop. There’s always a buzz in Miami when a new restaurant opens and Maiz y Agave is filled with diners wanting to see what it’s all about. Time will tell if they will be able to sustain the demand, once the buzz is gone.
Maiz y Agave 375 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables, FL 33134 Open 11 am to various hours (10 p.m.- 1 a.m.)
